Stillwater Cove Pier

The view from the pier is stunning! Look slightly to the west and you’ll see the Pescadero Rocks, the rocky pinnacle and strands of kelp that give shelter to this cove and truly provide, on most days, water that seems almost motionless. Look to your right and you’ll see Pescadero Point and the large pink structure known as the “Castle House,” perhaps the most famous—and expensive—house in Pebble Beach (and site of several movies). Look to your left and you’ll glimpse Arrowhead Point and mystical Carmel; shift your attention just a little to the right and you’ll see Point Lobos and the beginnings of the Big Sur coastline, one of the world’s most scenic areas. Turn around (do a whirling dervish) and look inshore and you’re confronted with an attractive beach, the exclusive Beach and Tennis Club, and one of the world’s more famous and beautiful golf courses—the Pebble Beach Golf Course. In fact, the 4th hole sits next to the shoreline by the pier and holes 5-7 effectively circle the cove. The 17th hole sits just the other side of the Beach and Tennis Club. It’s kind of interesting—when the fishing is slow—to keep an eye on the golfers to see how they’re doing. And, you never know who might be on the links; it’s home to the rich and famous.

Looking south

However, I’ve often thought that perhaps it’s just a tad too pretty a postcard setting to also be a good fishing pier and my results have tended to confirm that thought. On most days you’ll have the pier to yourself, at least as far as fishing. There is a boat hoist on the pier, and a limited number of divers are allowed to depart from the pier (10 a day), but I’ve never seen more than a couple of anglers on the pier. In fact, you’ll usually have the pier to yourself; about the only regulars are workers from the nearby club.

Carmel off in the distance

Environment. Although part of the Carmel Bay Ecological Reserve, sport fishing for fin fish is allowed as a sign at the front of the pier points out. The water here is shallow and, as mentioned, generally very calm due to Pescadero Point and the Pescadero Rocks, the outcropping of rocks that sit somewhat south of the Point and help protect the area from northwest swells. 

Stillwater Cove

Although fish-enticing rocks define much of the cove’s bottom, and line the shoreline area on one side of the cove, they’re just a little too far away from the pier to give it a rocky environment. Instead, the bottom surrounding the pier itself is mostly sand that transitions into rock rubble as you get into deeper water. The pier pilings are concrete, with very little fish attracting growth on them, while heavy masses of seaweed and kelp are spread from the pier throughout the cove; giant kelp in the deeper waters, feather boa kelp in the shallows. 

Kelp

Due to the shallow-water, sandy-bottom environment around the pier, and a general lack of water movement, what looks so promising at first glance often leads to disappointment when measured strictly in terms of fish. Perhaps it’s better just to enjoy the setting and let the fishing be secondary in nature.

Stillwater Cove Pier

Somewhat surprisingly, two rocky-habitat species—blackperch and striped seaperch, seem to be the most common fish taken from the pier. In addition a few rockfish do show up, as well as a few cabezon and lingcod. Mostly though these hang around the nearby kelp and reefs rather than being residents of the pier area. As for the sandy shore species, a few are taken—barred, calico, walleye, spotfin and silver surfperch, but their numbers seem limited. Common, at times, are jacksmelt and when a school heads by the rocks it can provide some steady action. In addition, the mix may also see a few more solitary species, flatfish, as well as a few leopard sharks and bat rays.

A non-fish species that does seem to be resident is harbor seals, I’ve rarely had a visit when at least a few of the pinnipeds weren‘t bobbing around in the water. Sea otters may also make an appearance and when they do they can be quite amusing.

Make sure you enjoy the scenery because most days, as said, are not that great as far as fishing. Better fishing can be found from nearby shoreline areas, especially Arrowhead Point, but much of the area is restricted.

 Fishing Tips. Primary species are the aforementioned perch—black and striped—joined by lesser numbers of rubberlip and rainbow seaperch, all probably having wandered over from the nearby rocks. They will be joined by barred surfperch, calico surfperch and walleye surfperch, species that prefer the sandy bottom around the pier. Joining them will be flatfish such as sand sole, starry flounder, sanddabs and perhaps a halibut (but you need the right bait or lures). A few leopard sharks are reported from the pier and a few rays. Add in some small to medium-size rockfish (mostly grass rockfish), a stray cabezon or two, and an occasional lingcod, and you have a decent variety. Just don’t expect a lot of fish every day.

Blackperch from the pier

As for the perch, stick to the basics—pile worms, fresh mussels, ghost shrimp, or small pieces of market shrimp (all of which you will have to bring with you). For the barred surfperch you can try the sandy-shore area and try sand crabs (if you can find them), fresh mussels, pile worms or ghost shrimp. Like many areas, anglers are also beginning to use plastics—a variety of grubs and swim baits—for the perch.  

A striped seaperch from the pier

The aforementioned baits will also attract the small to medium-size rockfish (that are often called rock bass by the locals). However, strips of squid can also be effective and may lure in a sole or shark. If seeking out the rockfish, cabezon, and lingcod, I suggest following the words of MB, a local who fishes the pier fairly often. His advice: “casting toward the 17th hole is where the rocky bottom and kelp bed begins to grow and where I catch all of my rockfish/cabezon from the pier (but you have to cast far and be prepared with heavy gear for snags). Even though there are pockets of kelp throughout, only perch seem to inhabit those areas.” As I always say, follow the advice of the locals. Do be prepared for some snags because you’ll probably get them. No pain no gain, right?

Some large leopard sharks and bat rays are also found in these waters so be sure to bring along a net. Problem here is keeping the bigger creatures from encircling bits of kelp with the line. As always, a bit of luck is needed if you hook a big fish. However, the pier is small and if necessary a fish can often be walked down to the sandy beach at the front of the pier or to the dock that is tethered to the end of the pier during the summer. 

Again, don’t bring great expectations because they rarely will be filled. That is unless your expectations center on the ambiance of the spot, the sheer beauty, and its peaceful nature. All of those are great in contrast to rather drab fishing (on most days). As one local angler said, “It’s not a great pier since it doesn’t have deep water, but it’s almost automatic for perch and great for kids.”

Looking toward the 4th Green

Note No. 1. Sometimes I wish I were a diver! Although the top-of-the-water view here is beautiful, the underwater scene must be amazing. In an article by Bruce Watkins (Dive Spot Monterey County), he describes that undersea world: “The prominent feature of Stillwater Cove is the mass of rocks in the center of the cove. Known as Pescadero Rocks, most divers concentrate their activities around the rocks and in the reef directly south of the rocks…

Pescadero Rocks

These rocks are covered with all of the colorful marine life that makes California diving so interesting—carpets of red corynactis anemones, giant green and blood red telia anemones, and yellow and cobalt sponges.  Monkey-faced eels are abundant here but often go unnoticed. Their distorted faces are a bit grotesque but, nonetheless, interesting to photograph… Also, not a true eel, wolf eels inhabit Stillwater Cove. These strong-jawed fish feed on sea urchins and shellfish. Wolf eels are far less threatening than their name or appearance would suggest, are very shy, and rarely bother divers. As one gets nearer Pescadero Rocks the bottom juts up from 40 to 30 feet in a massive wall that runs nearly 100 yards. On the north side of the wall is a float marking the location of an underwater statue. At the base of the wall are a number of shallow caves, ledges and swim throughs. The walls are adorned with encrusting sponges in hues of cobalt red and yellow, and the nooks and crannies of the wall harbor an assortment of photogenic invertebrates… In the shallow water around Pescadero Rocks live an abundance of hermit and decorator crabs. This shallow area is also a great place to observe and photograph nudibranchs. The simple dorids, such as the lemon and Monterey nudibranch, are here in abundance. Just to test your photographic skill there are also more photogenic species. Photos of orange and white clown nudibranchs, gaudy red and white Phidianas and ostentatious Dendronotids will wow your friends.”

Golfers on the adjacent Pebble Beach Golf Course

Note No. 2. Stillwater Cove and the nearby Coast Guard Pier in Monterey are the only two sites in California where sea otters have been observed attacking and eating birds (it’s also been observed in Alaska). Species attacked included western grebes, cormorants, surf scooters, common loons, and gulls. Otters have been observed approaching birds from under the water as the birds rested on the surface, then dragging the birds underwater while wrestling with them and biting them. Attacks lasted up to fifteen minutes before the bird was eaten. At the same time female otters have been observed carrying around a bird carcass on their chest for an hour or more. Scientists aren’t quite sure what to make of the phenomenon.

Note No. 3. Although the cove and setting have a rather “pristine” feel to them, looks can be deceiving. Heal the Bay, a Santa Monica-based group that monitors water quality at 370 locations along the coast, rated Stillwater Cove as one of the three dirtiest beaches (“Beach Bummers”) in Northern California along with Campbell Cove State Beach in Sonoma County and Pillar Point Harbor in Half Moon Bay. At least that was the finding in 2005.

“For the fourth year in a row, Stillwater Cove at the Beach and Tennis Club scored markedly worse than all other monitored Monterey County beaches by receiving an F grade. Stillwater Cove, as its name implies, has poor circulation and little tidal flushing. In addition, this location tends to be a favorite of marine mammals and birds. The only other known source in the area is a constantly running storm drain, which mostly services the local golf course.”

                                    —Heal the Bay, 2004-2005, 15th Annual Report

 The good news is that Stillwater Cove received “A’s” on the 2008 and 2009 report cards given by Heal the Bay so evidently things are improving.

The beach at Stillwater Cove

Note No. 4. Like many of California’s piers and their beaches, this cove and pier was used in a movie—Captain January (1936).

The Beach

Note No. 5. Rescuers struggle to save amazing giant squid —

 Humboldt Squid

WHILE NOT quite of the gargantuan proportions of Jules Verne’s famous giant squid, a group of Humboldt squid that washed ashore at Stillwater Cove in Pebble Beach last week were certainly mysterious and fascinating — and huge.

When Joey Guilatco arrived for work at the Beach and Tennis Club at 5 Friday morning, he was told that a club member walking her dog had found several squid stranded on the nearby beach.

With a flashlight, Guilatco went down to the beach and searched in the early morning darkness. And while almost everyone else was still peacefully dreaming in bed, he came across a sight that did not seem to belong to the waking world — more than a dozen of the largest squid he’d ever seen, many still alive, scattered along the beach.

They were “moving, breathing, and spewing some kind of saliva,” Guilatco said.

It was their size that struck him most. Including their tentacles, some were five feet long. They weighed about 10 pounds each, which Guilatco learned as he and other P.B. employees tried to lug the living animals back to the ocean.

He called the Moss Landing Marine Laboratory to report the incident and see if the experts could explain the bizarre event. They instructed Guilatco to preserve the dead ones in ice while they considered sending a scientist to investigate.

Guilatco and the other employees collected the squid and put them on a bed of ice on a picnic table at the beach. Souvenirs? The Moss Landing people never came, but the squid did not go to waste. By the end of the day, all but one had been taken.

—Regan Carey, The Carmel Pine Cone, October 16, 2003

History Note.  It’s a little hard to imagine today but the cove and its shoreline once served as home for a Chinese fishing village. The Chinese had fished Carmel Bay since 1851 when they set up a camp in Point Lobos; soon after two additional camps were established, one at Pescadero (today’s Stillwater Cove), and one at Point Alones (near Cannery Row).  By 1853 a settlement was recorded at Cabrillo Point (China Point), the site of today’s Hopkins Marine Station.  It would be the main Chinese settlement for many years.

The Chinese were skillful fisherman and a large part of the Monterey fishing industry for many years but eventually they came into conflict with other immigrant groups, especially the Italian-American fishermen. Increasingly restrictive laws made it hard to fish and process their catch, and when combined with a mysterious fire at the China Point settlement in 1906, the decline of the “Chinese fishing villages” almost seemed inevitable. The Pescadero camp itself apparently came to an end in 1912. 

In 1916 the Monterey Cypress newspaper reported plans for a pier and bathhouse at the cove. Just a few years later, in 1919, the small fishing lodge had grown to be  “one of the finest fishing clubs in the country.” That lodge was the forerunner for today’s Beach & Tennis Club building that sits near the front of the pier.

“The Seventeen-Mile Drive curves through the spacious homes and gardens of Pebble Beach… at 14 m. is the junction with a paved road; R. 03m. to Stillwater Cove with its arch rock offshore, its fishing club and bathing beach, yacht harbor and marine gardens (glass-bottom boats, 50¢).”

—California, A Guide To the Golden State, Federal Writers Project, Works Progress Administration, 1939

By 1948 the original pier was beginning to show its age and a new pier was needed. The new pier would be built by the Stillwater Yacht Club, a deed commemorated by a small sign near the entrance to the pier: “Matthew & Mimi Jenkins Pier. First Commodore & First Lady. Stillwater Yacht Club. Est. 1948.”

Not mentioned is the fact that Matthew Jenkins was also one of the developers of Pebble Beach and that the Jenkin’s had bought the 5.5 acre parcel overlooking Stillwater Cove in 1943 for $43,000. Their purchase, and refusal to sell it to Samuel Morse who developed Pebble Beach Golf Links, prevented his plan for a shoreline hole No. 5. The building of the shoreline hole would not take place until 1999 when the heirs to Mimi Jenkins sold her property.

As happens to all coastal piers, the sea and weather take a toll. Sooner or later wood (especially the pilings) deteriorates and repair or a rebuild is necessary. In this case, the pier was condemned in 1980. Another new pier was needed but the story of the new pier would take several interesting twists before completion. 

In 1977 the Del Monte Properties Company had reincorporated as Pebble Beach Corporation and then, in 1979, the company was bought by Marvin Davis who owned Twentieth Century Fox. It was during his tenure as owner that The Inn & Links at Spanish Bay was developed (in part, as rumor has it, to increase needed cash flow).

Davis needed the approval of the Coastal Commission to build the new resort and they were agreeable with a number of conditions, one being that “Public Access” be gained for Stillwater Cove.

However, the property at the cove was owned by Mimi Jenkins (following the death of Matthew her husband). As matriarch of her family, and still involved with the yacht club, she was agreeable to the public access with several additional conditions that she had her attorney add to the mix. The Pebble Beach Corporation company would build a new pier and put a hoist on the pier. In addition, they would have a Harbor Master on duty part of the year (May 15-September 15). 50 visitors would be allowed to visit the cove (and pier) per day but no more than 10 divers a day and they would no longer be allowed to shoot fish under water, only observe and/or photograph them. The cove and pier would remain open to all residents of Pebble Beach. The corporation and the coastal commission agreed to the conditions and a new pier was constructed (for a relatively modest $500,000).

The Pebble Beach Corporation would go through further change and ownership, but the pier with its special conditions has remained relatively unchanged since 1984 (although a new hoist is planned for the pier).

Stillwater Cove Pier Facts

Hours: Open daylight hours. Access is through the parking lot of the Beach & Tennis Club

Facilities: Few, since this pier was not designed as a fishing pier. There is a limited amount of coastal access parking near the entrance to the club‘s parking lot. Look for the tall hedge and you’ll see (ten spaces) that are gone quickly given the number of divers who visit the area. Always call 831-625-8536 to reserve a space if you intend to visit. Restrooms are found near the front of the pier.

Handicapped Facilities: Handicapped parking (one space) but non-handicapped restrooms. The pier surface is wood planking with a rail height of 43 inches; an 8-inch curb runs along the entire length of the pier making access to the railing difficult. Not posted for handicapped.

How To Get There: From Highway 1 take the Pebble Beach Exit. As soon as you exit you will see a toll station and the entrance to the famous 17-Mile Drive. Pay roughly $10 (it keeps going up) to traverse these hollowed grounds and follow the drive about three miles to the Beach & Tennis Club turnoff. Turn left onto Palmero Way, .24 miles turn left onto Cypress Drive, look for tall cypress tress and a narrow parking lot that is reserved for public access—just up the street from the club.

Stillwater Cove Pier

The Beach & Tennis Club

Pescadero Rocks and the rocks on the north end of the cove

Their arrival at the pier also brings back memories of the Pier Fishing in California  Message Board report by my friend Ben Acker during a visit in 2007— and the fictional story that resulted.

DOMPFA Ben with a jumbo squid caught from Balboa Pier. Ben is  6’3″

Date: May 29, 2007

To: PFIC Message Board

From: dompha ben

Subject: Jumbo Squid Invasion at Balboa!

Around 3:30, we… drove around to Balboa Pier. When we arrived, there were only a few families at the end, enjoying a wide-open mackerel bite. I split-shotted a small piece of mackerel and kept a few of the cannibals for bait. Almost all were released; those that didn’t look like they would make it (eye injuries, etc.) were given away to folks.

As the afternoon turned to evening, more and more people showed up at the end of the pier. By the time the sun was setting, it was shoulder to shoulder, with people wrapping all the way around Ruby’s.

As dusk fell, I saw the first squid cruise under the lights. At first, I thought it was a baby seal, but I noted the erratic pulsing movement, and realized what it was. Soon, there were hundreds of the huge critters flashing in the water. Bryan and I tossed out squid jigs, and immediately hooked up. Everyone on the end of the pier was bendo…it was incredible! I haven’t seen that much excitement on a pier for a long time.

After a solid 40 minutes of wide-open squidding, they seemed to vanish just as quickly as they had arrived. I didn’t keep any of the beasts, as I have a few slabs of calamari in my freezer from a squid my brother Dan gave me a few weeks ago. Instead, the squid we caught are going home with some of the nice families with whom we fished tonight, including a couple of people that didn’t manage to land any squid of their own. I don’t like to give away my catch as a rule, but in the case of squid, which don’t release well, I didn’t mind.

All told, the pier probably landed around 50 squid by 9:15, with over 100 lost due to light line, pulled jigs, inexperience, and unpreparedness. I had one of only three nets at the end of the pier, and it was being passed around like community property… I didn’t mind, actually, and stopped catching squid for a while so I could help people net theirs.

My hoop net was in high demand tonight…Did I mention…BRING A NET!

Yes…that’s my net.

Everyone was appreciative, and no one fought, complained, or acted too greedy. I can see why people think Balboa is the “friendliest” pier in SoCal.

Word has it the last few nights have had similar showings of the big squid at Huntington, Newport, Balboa, Oceanside, and Dana Point. Don’t forget a landing net… these squid are BIG. By the way, I’m not blowing up the spot. It’s already blown up, and the number of people using cell phones to call in their buddies tonight was almost comical. As we walked down the pier leaving, there were hoards of people coming in with coolers and buckets. I hope the squid came back to give them a repeat performance…because they were gone when we left. Happy hunting…

Calstar Bryan poses with an angry squid at Balboa Pier. If you do catch a big squid, stay clear of the tentacles and the sharp beak. They can do damage to your flesh, and give you a painful experience!

Posted by Calstar Bryan

Hi Everybody- Thanks for all the kind responses. The squid were (no pun intended) a blast to catch. As for rod and reel combos, I was using an 8ft. jig stick coupled with a Daiwa Sealine 30 tossing 30lb. test and they were still ripping drag and putting tons of bend-o in the rod.

Ben seemed to take top honors in “Fight of the Night” fishing an Abu 6500 on an 8ft. 15lb. rod with 50lb. Power Pro. I can’t tell you how jealous sick I was watching him fight those freight trains on that light gear.

As for jigs, Ben was rigged pretty traditional for squirts, working a plastic squid jig 12 inches above a four-ounce torpedo sinker. I threw a painted glow-in-the-dark torpedo sinker with squid hooks and that seemed to work well too. Anglers fishing neon glow sticks (green or purple) were hooking up pretty consistently. Unfortunately, as Ben mentioned, some squid unbuttoned due to pulling the jig, inexperience and/or too light of line. It was kinda’ entertaining though seeing some of the broken-off glow sticks breeze through the water then disappear into the depths.

I’ve never seen such excitement on a pier in all my life. People were cheering and high-fiving while others patiently played out the big cephalopods waiting for a landing net to be lowered. Complete strangers encouraged their fellow anglers on throughout their fights as fresh ones were being hooked up around the entire end of the pier. Oh to be a patron of Ruby’s, witnessing all this from a booth, must have amazing. The experience was truly awesome.  If my brother reads this…Brady sorry I inked up your jeans.

Ben, being a great writer,  could not resist a short fictional account of what could happen on a crowded pier.

Pier Collapse Prompts Investigation

by B. Russell Acker, Staff Writer

May 31, 2007

NEWPORT BEACH– In what is being called a freak accident, the Balboa Pier collapsed under the incredible weight of a large crowd of fishermen, and plunged into the roiling surf, late Wednesday night. While no one was killed in the incident, scores were hurt, and hundreds have already filed claims against the city for their injuries and loss of fishing gear.

Nick Tripodes, a local merchant, witnessed the ordeal.

“I heard a loud snap, followed by screams and a tremendous splash,” recounts Tripodes. “You could hear all those people swimming for shore in the dark. It was awful.”

Newport Beach Police Sgt. Raymond Devonian cites eyewitness accounts that suggest the pier collapse was caused by giant cephalopods.

“When the giant squid come in, the pier loads up with [anglers],” stated Devonian. An avid angler himself, Devonian empathized with the calamari-crazed fishermen. Still, he encourages anglers to be safe.

“It’s just not designed to support that many people,” Devonian said about the pier, now little more than a concrete and wood jetty jutting out from the shoreline at a right angle. “What we’re going to do with the tons of squid jigs that are washing up on the beach I really have no idea,” said Devonian.

Initial reports from the Army Corps of Engineers suggest that over 17,000 people were on the pier Wednesday night at the time of collapse.

“That’s astronomical,” said Ken Jones, author of Pier Fishing in California. “It’s not the kind of thing we [pier anglers] take lightly. When this sort of thing takes place, there’s really only one question: Where’s the tartar sauce?”

Jones’ comments were merited by how rare it is for the tasty cephalopods to swim en masse this close to a pier.

It is unclear at this time if last winter’s cold weather spared enough of California’s lemon crop to meet the demand of calamari anglers. “Let’s just hope the price of lemons makes these eight squid I caught last night worth it,” stated one soaked angler. He did not wish to be identified, but added, “Balboa is still the friendliest pier in California. I’ll be back.”

Several organizations are calling for a probe into Wednesday’s catastrophe. Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger (R-CA) exercised his executive powers early Thursday morning, declaring a state of emergency, which makes many anglers eligible to apply for federal aid to replace lost fishing gear.

At a press conference, Schwarzenegger’s comments were short, but hit a sour note among California’s pier anglers.

“You are mine now! You belong to me!” exclaimed Schwarzenegger. It was not clear if Schwarzenegger was speaking about the Balboa pier collapse, or if he was simply quoting lines from the 1990 film, Kindergarten Cop.

What is clear is that the Governor has called for the immediate closure of all piers in the state, until such time as they can be inspected and deemed safe.

When asked when the piers might be reopened, Schwarzenegger only stated, “You forgot the second rule in a crisis situation…”

He did not comment further, leaving many pier anglers and residents of the quiet Newport Beach community to wonder about their beloved pier.

The 2011 squid were a little smaller —